Sewing and trimming machine.



J. R. MOPFATT.

SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE,

' APPLICATION FILED JULY 8, 1904. RENEWED MAY 19,1913. 1B Patentsii Dec.23, 1913.

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Patented Dec. 23, 1918,

6 SI*IEETS SHBEI 2.

J. R. MOFPATT.

SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY8,-1904. RENEWED MAY 19, 1913.

RENEWED MAY 19, 1913.

J] MOPPATT.

SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

APBLIGATION FILED JULI8,1904.

a EEatentefi 31. MGEEFATT.

SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED TULY 8, 190 RENEWED MAY 19, 1913. mmmmw Wikwcaaw J. R.MOFFATT.

SEWING-AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED JULY 8, 1904 RENEWED MAY 19, 1913.

1,0853%} m Patented Dec. 23, 1913.

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JAMES. R. MOFFA'I'T, 01* GHIOAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR T UNION SPECIALMACHINE 1 OOMIANY, ($1 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPQRATION OF'ILLiNQIS.

SEIWIWG ANJD TRIMMINQ MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent. l

Application filed July 8, 1904;, Serial No. 215,796. Renewed May 19,i918. Serial No. 768,661.

To'aZl 'whom'a'fi may concern Be, it known that It, Jen ms 1t. Moi-WATT,a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicage, in: the county ofCook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and usefutImprovements in Sewing and Trimming Machines, oi? which the following isa description, reference'being had to the accomgaiiying drawing and tothe letters and gures of'refercnce marked thereon.

My invention relates to sewingmachines, and-especially to a sewingmachine for use in forming hems; for the manufacture of underwearforcarrying out the operation 0t neckingundershirts, or finishing the tailsof. undershirts, for applique work, or for any-work. where one or moresuperposed layers of fabric are trimmed oh, the raw edge. thereoif beingsewed to the body fabric.

So fares the detailsof the trimming mechanism are concerned, they may beappl-icable to other typeset machines, but the present invention hasbeen designed especially for theneckin 1 of nndershirts, where thefabric is doubled, and fed to the machine, the point of the stationarycutting member passing intothe bend of the goods, the upper layerbeingsevered and the two layers being united, the rawedg'e beingcoveredby a cross. thread of thestitclr forming mechanism.

In the present embodiment of the in-ven tion, the machine-for carryingout said in vention, comprises as to its stitchforming mechanism-ismneedles set oblique to each other rcspcting the line ot teed, a loopercocp erating with each needle, whereby. two

lines of stitching-are formed, athread can rying finger weaving athreadback and forth between the rowsofi stitches, a triIn-' men in advance ofthe stitclrtorming mechanism, having. the stationary cutting. memberarranged .uponthc presser foot and ,pointed'to enter between andseparate the two layers oi fabric, thelowerwonc of which passes beneaththe presser foot, while-the upper layer is severed by the. upper movablebladeof the cutting member, and its 1 raw edge is sewed down to the bodyfabric byzthe stitch-forming mechanism. One advantage of thisarrangement over others tor accomplishing the same work, is that the rt;is done right Sldfir up, luiull view oi the operator, and. does not haveto be done on; the wrong side and then turned out.

The invention consists in the various matters hereinafter described andreferred to in the appended claims.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in whichFigure l. is a front View of a sewing machine, embodying my invention;Fig. 2 is a rear view; Fig. 3 is an end View; Fig. i is a skeletonizedview 01'? the trimmer and its operating mechanism; Fig. 5 1s a sectionalvlew illustrating the manner of adjusting h the trimmer; Fig. 6 is aperspective view of B is theneedle bar carrying the needles a, b, whichare arranged in a line oblique to the line of feed.

Any complemental stitclrforming' mechanisrn may be used to cooperatewith the needles beneath the throat plate.

C represents the driving shaft, provided with a gear D, meshing with agear E, upon the front face of which is an eccentric l embraced by thelower end of an eccentric connecting rod or pitinan Gr, which at itsPatented Dec. 23, 1913. 7

upper end is pivoted to the lower end of the crank arm H, attached tothe rocking sleeve l. on'the rock shaft J, which latter is journaled inbearings on the machine frame. Said sleeve 1 has near its opposite end,a downwardly depending crank arm K, which. is attached at its lower endto the ball stud L, which is embraced by one end of the horizontalconnecting rod M, which latter at its opposite end, has a clampembracing a ball N on. the end of the stud O, which at its opposite endis fixedly sleeved upon the vertical shaft P, journaled in the head ofthe machine, and having means at its lower end for the attachment of thethread-carrying finger Q, which oscillates back and forth.

The gear E has twice the number of teeth the lower gear, hence thefinger will be driven to either one of its extreme positions,

and dwell while the operating eccentric for the finger is passing thedead center, thus allowing the needles tojstitch' down to the 5 fabricthe threaed carried. by finger Q.

The rock shaft J is jo-urnaled in bearing lugs on the rear of themachine, and is oscil lated from the driving shaft through the medium ofthe eccentric R, the rod S and lo the crank T secured to said rockshaft.

At its forward end, the rock shaft has socured to it a downwardlydepending arm 1. provided on its lower end with a ball stud which. isembraced by one end of the connecting rod 3, which connecting rod at itsother end has a similar ball and stud con-- nection with the arm 4,extending upwardly from the trimmer frame 5, which trimmer frame isjournaled on the shaft 6. which shaft is fixed to the block 7 supportedfrom thepresser bar of the machine.

The trimmer frame 5 has a forwardly extending arm 8, to which is clampedby means of the block 9 and screw 1%, the upper member 11 of thetrimmer. it will be seen that in the oscillation of the rock shaft J,the trimmer frame 5 will oscillate on the shaft (3, and impart vct't cilreciprocation to the upper trimmerblade. The lower stationarycooperating member of the trimmer is herein shown at 13, and is formedon a removable plate 14, attached to the presser foot. This lowertrimming member 13,

fabric, and its pointed end forms one toe of the presser foot, the othertoe 15, being upturned in the usual way.

It will. be understood that the stationary 40 member 13 of the trimmingdevice may be integral with the presser foot instead of remoyablyattached to it.

it will be seen that as the trimmer frame 5 is journaled on a shaft 6,which 4,5 -cured to a block carried by the presser bar, that the entiretrimmer frame will partake of the vertical moyernents of the prcsserhar. .-itt:': ;:hcd to the fu'esser foot. in rear of the forward needleis a curved guide U, for deflecting the material which has been severedaway from the line of stitching, leaving the raw edge of the otherportion of said severed material to be cox-cred by the cross stitchmechanism.

17 represents a finger extending out over the stationary member of thetrimming device, which is adapted to hold the upper layer of materialdown upon the stationary member.

its a further and special imi n'oyement in a machine of this character,I have provided means whereby the trimming device may be adjusted tooperate in advance of one or the other of the needles of the cross esstitch mechanism, thus allowing for their sewed.

right or left hand overseaming and sewing of the severed edge to thebody if the goods.

The particular means for adjusting the upper blade of the trimmer isshown in Fig. 5, in which a spring surrounding the shaft and hearing atone end on the collar 18, and at the other end against the lower part ofthe arm extending from the trimmer frame, keeps said trimmer framenormally in a certain position; while upon the opposite side of thetrimmer frame, a collar 19 is provided, which is adjusted by means of athumb screw 20. The stationary member 13 of the cutting" device, canalso be, adjusted laterally by means of its screw and slot engagementwith the presser foot, and thus the entire trimming apparatus may be setto desired position, the spring keeping' the upper trimmer membernormally in operative engagement with the lower member of the trimming;device.

By having the entire trimming device partake of the vertical movementsof the presser bar, it will be noticed that under different thicknessesof material being sewed, the trimmer \Vlli always adjust itself toproper position, and in fact trim in different horizontal planes, inaccordance with the thickness of the material being inasmuch as thetrimming arrangement operated from the main shaft, it will be noticedthat it. practically movesin unison with the mm'ements of the needle,this being a two to one it ion with respect to the thread-carryiru:anger movement as herein befor (lQSLTllMXl.

l have shown in Fig. 6 the work done on he machirm in connection withthe neck 1 ill isiration will describe the operation of the machine inaccomplishing such work, although it will be understood that the samemachine may be used. for hemming or finishing underwear, for appliquework, or for any other kind of useful or ornamental finishin ofgarments.

in th e operation of necking underwear, the piece of goods is foldedover once with the right side up, and placed in position under the presser foot. the movement of the machine, the upper trimmer blade will comcof im lerwear. and merely by way of with a cross stitch-formingmechanism, of a I trimmer arranged in advance of the stitchformingmechanism, and in the line of the seam, said trimmer including a lowerstationary member adapted to penetrate between two layers of fabric, anda movable cooperating upper member adapted to sever the upper layer ofsaid fabric, means for feeding the fabric and means for deflecting thesevered edge away from the stitch mechanism, whereby said two layers areunited,

and the raw edge of the upper layer covered by the cross thread of thestitchtsubstantially as described. 4

2; In a sewing machine, the combination with the presser foot thereof,of a trimmer of which the stationary member is carried by the presserfoot, and is adapted to penetrate between two layers of fabric, and amovable cooperating upper-anember adapted to sever said fabric, and across stitch mechanism in rear of the trimming device, whereby saidstitch forming mechanism, including;- (-0- two layers are severed, andthe raw edge of the upper layer covered by the cross thread of thestitch; and means carried. by the presser foot for deflecting that partof the trimmed oii' strip which is not to be covered; means for feedingthe fabrics; substantially as described.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with cross stitch-formingmechanism, means for feeding a plurality of thicknesses of material, atrimming mechanism in advance of the cross stitch-forming mechanism andincluding a device for separating the thicknesses of material as thecutting is performed, said trimming mechanism including cooperatingtrimming blades automatically movable to allow them to cut in differenthorizontalplanes as the thicknesses of mate rial vary. and means forreciprocating one of said blades, ti e reciprocation of said blade beingindependent of the automatic movement; substantially as described.

4-. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work Support, a presserfoot, cross stitch forming mechanism, meansfor feeding a plurality ofthicknesses of material, iai trimming mechanism in advance of the crossoperating trimming blades having a relative movement in a planesubstantially at right angles to the work support, means for separatingthe thicknesses of material as the cutting is performed, means forautomath caity moving said trimming blades and separating means, withthe presser foot of the machine, whereby the trimming blades arepositioned in the plane in which they operate, so as to cut in differenthorizontal planes, as the thickness of the material varies, and meansfor giving the trimming blades a movement relative to each other.

' 5. In a sewing machine,the combination of cross stitch mechanism, apresser foot,awork support, means for feeding a plurality of thicknessesofmaterial, a trimming mechanism in advance of the cross stitchmechanism, including a device for separating the thicknesses of thematerial, as the cutting is performed, said trimming mechanism includingcoiiperating trimming blades having a relative movement in a planesubstantially at right angles to the work support, means foropera-tively connecting both of said trimming blades with the presserfoot, whereby said trimming blades rise and fall with the presser foot,under the action of varying thicknesses of the material and independentmeans for giving the trimming blades a movement relative to each otherto sever the fabric.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism,comprising a plurhlity of needles, means for forming a connectionbetween the rows of stitches, means for feeding a plurality ofthicknesses of material, cutting mechanism comprising devices forcutting the upper thickness of material and separating the thicknessesas the cutting is performed, whereby only one of said thicknesses iscut, and means for guiding the free severed edge away from the needlesbefore it reaches the same, the said needles being located behind thecutting mechanism, and operating together with the means for forming aconnection between said needle stitches to secure the cut edge to theuncut fabric.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination of cross stitch-formingmechanism, means forv feeding a plurality of thicknesses of material.cutting mechanism comp-rising a device for separating the thicknesses as'the cutting is performed whereby only one of said thicknesses is cut,and means for guiding-the free severed edge away from the stitchingmechanism before it reaches the'same, the said stitching mechanism beingdocated behind the cutting mechanism'and arranged to sew 'one ofithe cutedges to the uncut fabric' by coveringthe cut is "ge. and means toadjust said cutting mechanism across the line of the seam; substantiallyas described.-

8. In a sewing machine, the combination of cross stitclnformingmechanism. a presserfoot, means for feeding a plurality of thicknessesof material. cutting mechanism com- ,prlsmg a device for separating thethicknesses as the cutting is performed, whereby only one of said thicknesses is cut, and means iza carried by said presser foot for guidingthe free severed edge away from the stitching mechanism before itreaches the same, the said stitching mechanism being located bee hindthe cutting mechanism and arranged to sew one of the cut edges to theuncut fabric by covering the cut edge, means to adjust said cuttingmechanism across the line of the seam.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination of cross stitch-formingmechanism, includ ing means for making two independent rows of stitchingand a thread-carrying finger for depositing a thread between the tworows 01' stitching above the material operated upon, means for feeding aplurality of thicknesses of material, cutting mechanism comprisingdevices for cutting the upper thickness of material and separating thethicknesses as the cutting is performed, whereby only one of saidthicknesses is cut, and means for guiding the free severed edge awayfrom the stitching mechanism before it reaches the same, the saidstitching mechanism being located behind the cutting mechanism, andarranged to sew one of the cut edges to the 1111.

cut fabric by covering the cut edge; siili stantially as described.

10. In a sewing machine, suitable stitchforming mechanism including adevice for depositing a cross thread on the upper face of a fabric,means for feeding a plurality of layers of material, to the stitchforming mechanism, a trimming mechanism in ad vance of thestitch-forming mechanisn'i and arranged to sever the top layer offabric,

means for deflecting the trimmed oif portion, leaving the raw edge ofthe top layer to be covered by the cross thread and sewed down to thebody fabric; substantially as de scribed.

11. In a sewing machine, suitable stitchforming mechanism including adevice for depositing a cross thread on the upper face of a fabric meansfor feeding a plurality of layers of material, to the stitch formingmechanism, a trimming mechanism in advance of the stitch-formingmechanism and arranged to sever the top layer of fabric, means fordeflecting the trimmed off portion, leaving the raw edge of the toplayer to be covered by the cross thread and sewed down to the bodyfabric, said trimming device being adjustable laterally; substantiallyas described.

12. In a sewing machine, a plurality of needles arranged oblique to theline of feed. a thread-carrying finger depositing a thread on the topsurface of the material and in a line oblique to the line of feed, meansfor feeding a plurality of thicknesses of material, a cutting mechanismcomprising a device for separating the thicknesses Qf'lllilte rial asthe cutting is performed, whereby only one of said thicknesses is cut,and

means for guiding the free severed edge away from the stitchingmechanlsm before mechanism. and arranged to sew oneof the cutv e ge withthe obliquely laid cross threads; substantially as described.

13. In a sewing machine, a pluralit of .75

needles arraged obli ue to ,the line of eed, means to operate t e same-vertically, a thread-carrying finger for laying a thread across theline of feed and between. the needles, means to operate saidthread-carrying finger, once across the line offeed to each tworeciprocations of the needles into the material, a trimmer in advance ofsaid needles and means to operate the trimmer in unison with thereciprocation of the needles; substantially as described. r

14. In a sewing machine, a cross stitchmechanism including a pluralityof needles arranged oblique to the line of feed, a fin- 4 .10 cut ed esto the uncut fabric by covering the ger for laying .a thread across theline of 15. In a sewing machine trimming device, having a movable blade,means for operating the sameand a statlonaryblade, a

presser toot carrying said stationary blade V and with which the movableblade cooper,- ates, said presser foot having also a portion of itsfront end upturned to allow one portion of the fabric severed to passbeneath said foot; said stationary blade having its forward end pointedto pierce the material and enter between the layers thereof, and meansfor feeding'a plurality of layers of material to said trimmer,substantially as described:

16. A sewing machine including in com bination a work support, mechanismfor simultaneously stitching and covering a cut edge, a cuttingmechanism located above the work support and in advance of the stitching and covering mechanism, means for feeding a plurality of layers offabric to the cutting mechanism, said cutting mechanism includingcutting devices having a relative movement in a planesubstantially atrightanglcs to the work support, and a device for lifting the upperlayer of fabric from the lower layer of fabric, whereby said upper layermay he cut by said cutting devices, a device for separating the cutedges of the upper layer,whereby one of said out edgesmay be separatedanddeflccted away from the stitch ng and covering mechanism,

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